Sunday, April 29, 2012

All Bases Covered

Scoop Model's Kirstin Liljegren follows up her stunning Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2012 campaign debut with a head turning appearance on the cover of one of my favourite publications Danish Cover Magazine. Fifteen year old Liljegren hails from Denmark and appears in the accompanying biker-inspired Cover editorial shot by photographer Hasse Nielsen. Liljegren was plucked from obscurity recently to appear alongside relative newcomers Rosie Tapner, Juliane Grüner and Laura Kampman for Balenciaga's S/S 2012 Steven Meisel lensed campaign. Liljegren has modelled locally for Danish publications Costume and New Wave Women and due to age restrictions has yet to make her international runway debut. Liljegren's agents at Scoop Models no doubt have big plans in store for the 179 cm tall flaxen haired beauty once she comes of age.

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Cover Magazine - May 2012
Photographer - Hasse Nielsen
Source - thefashionspot.com

Puttin' On the Glitz

In the lead up to the new millennium, fashion magazines took a moment to reflect on the faces that have helped to shape the industry. British Vogue produced an incredible portfolio lensed by Nick Knight showcasing the publication's favourite models, ranging in ages from sixteen to sixty-something. Industry icons Carmen Dell'Orefice, Iman, and Marisa Berenson are joined by Supers, Helena Christensen, Naomi Campbell, Stephanie Seymour, Claudia Schiffer, Kate Moss, Nadja Auermann and Gisele Bundchen amongst others for a look back at some of the most definitive British Vogue models through the decades. Knight captures the energy and individual allure of each model whilst keeping a celebratory spirit fitting for the countdown towards 2000.

Maggie Rizer
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Naomi Campbell
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Alek Wek
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight


Angela Lindvall
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Kate Moss
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Helena Christensen
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Gisele Bundchen
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Carmen Dell'Orefice
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Iman
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight


Erin O'Connor
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Karen Elson & Devon Aoki
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Stephanie Seymour
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Amber Valletta
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Nadja Auermann, Kirsten Owen & Claudia Schiffer
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight


Shalom Harlow
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight

Patti Hansen & Marisa Berenson
British Vogue - December 1999
Photographer - Nick Knight
All images courtesy of thefashionspot.com

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Golden Opportunity

One of the aspects that I appreciate most about Inoubliable Model Army is that it provides a platform from which I am able to showcase models I truly believe in. More often than not, the models featured on Inoubliable Model Army are already in high rotation and sought after by the industry's elite. Occasionally however, I hone in on a face that I feel has amazing potential but somehow has been overlooked. Such is the case with twenty year old Shelby Coleman who first landed on my radar in 2008 when I saw her in an editorial for French Revue de Modes lensed by Thierry Le Goues. Born in Skokie, Illinois, Coleman possesses an extreme beauty and ethnically ambiguous features that are hard to place. Coleman owes her exotic looks to her African American, Irish and Native American ancestry and has one of the most distinctive faces in modelling today.

Shelby Coleman
Photographer - Nirrimi Hakanson
Source - thefashionspot.com

Represented by IMG Models, Coleman emerged on the modelling scene at age sixteen when she was discovered at a casting for a Giambattista Valli trunk show in Chicago. The designer was so impressed by Coleman that he signed her exclusively to appear in his Fall/Winter 2008 show. Coleman's subsequent appearance at the Chanel Resort Fall 2008 presentation and an impressive Spring/Summer 2009 season walking for Tracy Reese, Tory Burch, William Rast, Three as Four, Mara Hoffman, Fatima Lopes, Nicole Miller, Kris Van Assche and Giambattista Valli amongst others, had industry pundits buzzing about the newcomer. Casting agency Production at Art + Commerce proclaimed "If it is true that Chicago is the 'windy city', we think it's safe to say that it travelled with this young lady as she completely blew us away with her presence! Shelby has a strong yet graceful persona, and the kind of classic All-American charm you just can't help but love", whilst nymag.com featured the Coleman as a star on the rise. 

Extreme Beauty
Photographer - Unknown
Source - thefashionspot.com

IMG Show Card
Courtesy of IMG Model Management
Source - thefashionspot.com

French Revue de Mode - Fall/Winter 2008
Photographer - Thierry LeGoues
Source - thefashionspot.com

Freckles Never Looked so Good
Image courtesy of COACD
Source - thefashionspot.com

The following season, the initial interest in Coleman failed to gain relevance with big name designers - generally a prerequisite for building runway traction in the lead up to the collections in Milan and Paris. Instead Coleman found herself relegated primarily to appearances in shows for designers that she had walked for the season before. Coleman has since gained editorial exposure in British Grazia, US Marie Claire and Glamour, Vogue Latin America, and 192 magazine, however her career has yet to kick into overdrive. Coleman is an articulate, intelligent woman with the proportions, presence and physical attributes required to excel at an elite level. Her face is a juxtaposition of high fashion moxie due in part to her elongated jawline, high forehead and wide-set eyes, and wholesome all-American appeal accentuated by the smattering of freckles on the bridge of her nose. In an interview with sachinbhola.com, Coleman keeps things in perspective when quizzed about the challenges presented by modelling "Rejection is normal in the industry. Coming into this not knowing that was tough, but now I don't even think twice about it. If I don't get a job for whatever reason, I say 'oh well' and focus on the next job/casting I have."

Italian Elle - June 2011
Photographer - David Burton
Source - davidburtonstudio.com

Italian Elle - June 2011
Photographer - David Burton
Source - davidburtonstudio.com

Italian Elle - June 2011
Photographer - David Burton
Source - davidburtonstudio.com

Italian Elle - June 2011
Photographer - David Burton
Source - davidburtonstudio.com

Last year I spotted Coleman again in a spell-binding editorial for Italian Elle shot by David Burton, looking nothing short of spectacular. Coleman's recent appearances in campaigns for Cole Haan and Laura Mercier cosmetics suggest perhaps that bigger things may be in store for her. I am hoping that IMG relaunches Coleman on the European market with some new test shots as they did with Joan Smalls. With her extreme beauty, stunning proportions and her tough, androgynous vibe, I can envisage Coleman looking right at home on the runways of Givenchy, Balenciaga and Balmain. When asked by sachinbhola.com about the future, Coleman says "My goal is to bring something new to the fashion world. As well as to be an inspiration to black girls and young girls in general." I hope that the fashion industry affords Coleman the opportunity to do so.

Cole Haan - F/W 2011
Photographer - Daniel Jackson
Source - models.com

Shelby Coleman & Tasha Tilberg
Laura Mercier - S/S 2012
Photographer - Daniel Jackson
Source - models.com

Friday, April 27, 2012

Prime Time

Russian-born, German-raised newcomer Kati Nescher is an anomaly in an industry that is fixated on youth. At age twenty-eight, Nescher represents a new breed of model that designers and clients are rhapsodising over. What Nescher and twenty-something models Saskia de Brauw, Aymeline Valade, Marie Piovesan and Arizona Muse, possess is the season's most desirable attributes - maturity and life experience. Nescher, the undisputed face of the recent Fall/Winter 2012 season, trounced her fellow teen compatriots with a staggering 63 show tally. Designers and casting directors alike were unanimous in anointing Nescher fashion's newest darling by selecting her to open and close for twelve and seven shows respectively. 

Prime Time - Kati Nescher
Photographer - Cyrille George Jerusalmi
Source - onestowatch.com

Nescher had previously attempted to model with limited success a few years earlier and only decided to give modelling another shot at the suggestion of some make-up artist acquaintances. Speaking with the Cut, Nescher recollects her initial forays into modelling, "I never had a good experience in this business when I was younger. I would try to model locally in Germany before, but things never worked out how I imagined. You can get lost in this business. Luckily, I had already studied at university and had my son. I think it's about being in the right place at the right time with the right people."

Nescher has been modelling for the past ten months whilst juggling parental duties as mother to two year old Theo. Since her explosive Fall/Winter 2012 season, Nescher has appeared in campaigns for Louis Vuitton, McQ and Pringle of Scotland shot by Steven Meisel, David Sims and David Sherry. Blue chip editorial bookings for British Vogue, Paris Vogue, Love, Self Service and Another Magazine suggest that Nescher may be more than just the industry's latest infatuation.

Paris Vogue - March 2012
Photographer - David SIms
Source - thefashionspot.com

NY Times T Magazine - April 2012
Photographer - Karim Sadli
Source - thefashionspot.com

British Vogue - February 2012
Photographer - Daniel Jackson
Source - models.com


In an interview with T Magazine, Nescher addresses the age disparity between herself and some of her younger compatriots "The clients say it's great to have someone who's older, who's a woman, and not a child anymore. But it's also not all about age. I'm there to sell something. Of course, it's nice for girls to grow up in this business from the beginning, but I don't really understand why they have to be very, very young." Nescher however remains diplomatic and unaffected in her discussions with T Magazine, "I don't want to say I'm wiser. It's just about personality. I've spoken to a lot of girls who are 19, and actually they're very interesting because of their experience travelling and the time they've spent just being alone. But, for clients, what I'm doing is about respect; it's a pleasure to walk for them. It's about teamwork for me. It's not just about wearing clothes; it's about acting, it's about editorial. It's about being in the moment and understanding what the client wants." With Nescher's womanly allure, mature outlook and her insights into the machinations of the fashion industry, it's no wonder industry pundits are enamoured by both her physical and cerebral qualities.


Backstage at Celine
Photographer - sonnyphotos
Source - thefashionspot.com

Top of the Town
Photographer - Chi Chi Saito
Source - theimagist.com

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

The Visionary

Daniel Peddle was drawn to the grit of New York City in 1992, from his hometown in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, as a grad student at N.Y.U. film school. Peddle's perspective on beauty, art and culture, and his keen eye, led him to the world of street casting. Peddle fell into casting as a student whilst sourcing people off the street for a film school project. Recognising his potential, Calvin Wilson a close friend who was working at Elite Models suggested that Peddle pursue casting in the fashion industry as a viable career. Peddle initially began scouring the streets of New York for Next Model Management, handing in a wad of polaroids each Friday in return for $300 to subsidise his student lifestyle. Over the ensuing years, Peddle built up a solid client base through a network of friends, stylists and photographers, culminating in the formation of his own agency, Daniel Peddle Casting, with his partner Drew Dasent.  

True Visionary - Daniel Peddle
Photographer - Emma Van Outray
Source - models.com

Peddle's inimitable take on beauty has since translated to the runways of 3.1 Phillip Lim, Givenchy Men, Ports 1961, Richard Chai, Anteprima, Chado Ralph Rucci, United Bamboo, Suno, and Zero + Maria Cornejo. Peddle constantly looks to the street for inspiration, explaining to vogue.com "Scouting on the street is my favourite thing to do. I grew up in a rural area in  North Carolina, so the streams of people here, the diversity of Manhattan, is a dream for me." Peddle elaborates further to stylelikeu.com, "I love it, it's like you know to me in a way, it kind of reminds me of going and picking up stones in the creek and looking for a crayfish. You know like going out on the streets of New York there are like streams of people and you know turning over stones and seeing what you can find, and trying to find something amazing and giving them access to the fashion world through casting and watching them develop. It's really an amazing experience."

Peddle's artistic eye resonates in his approach to casting with the renegade stipulating in the vogue.com interview, "For us, it's not just about being beautiful. In fact, it's just the opposite. We like finding the quirky ones! We love diversity, and an element of tomboyishness - strong, tough girls with a bit of an androgynous edge to them." Speaking with models.com, Peddle sheds light on his unique casting aesthetic "In terms of casting, I try to maintain my artist's eye and look for people who are interesting to look at in a variety of mediums. Whether it's film, or runway or print jobs the same type of person is intriguing. If you look strictly through a fashion eye you tend to fall prey to whatever the look of the moment is." 

Daniel Peddle, Phillip Lim & Unknown model
Photographer - Evan Sung
Source - vogue.com

Peddle's understanding of modelling's trickle-through effect to the wider communities and the accountability he displays in mirroring various social constructs in his casting approach, make him a true visionary. Peddle is emphatic when it comes to issues such as diversity in modelling stating resolutely to vogue.com "For me, it is a vehicle to communicate ideas around the world. No nationality or race has a monopoly on being beautiful, and the brands that we work with feel the same way." Speaking with models.com, Peddle touches on a casting trend that he believes has particular significance "Girls and boys that have faces that you can't just put in a certain place or race or geography. I think it's very helpful to see those types of faces in our conflicted world because you can see that we're still evolving as humans and they are the results of people willing to go beyond the socially constructed notions around race. I think that's really important and we're going to see even more of those as the population changes."

Peddle's artistic vision is a common thread in the many hats he wears as casting director, artist and film maker. Peddle is an accomplished painter whose works have been exhibited at the NP Contemporary Art Centre and the Envoy Gallery in New York. Peddle recently created a series of water colour portraits entitled "Backstage", depicting moments of solace amidst the frenzied backstage chaos. Peddle has also returned to his love of film, producing two feature length documentaries; the Aggressives and Trail Angels, which portray respectively the subcultures of inner-city African American and Latina lesbians, and the unsung heroes who tend to hikers during the six month journey down the Appalachian trail. In all of his pursuits, Peddle has remained true to his artistic vision and spirit, leaving no stone unturned in his pursuit of beauty beyond the pale.

Sui He Preening
Artist - Daniel Peddle
Source - danielpeddleart.com

Rose & Tao Mirror's Edge
Artist - Daniel Peddle
Source - danielpeddleart.com

Keith Last Look/Simon Glossed
Artist - Daniel Peddle
Source - danielpeddleart.com

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Subtle Restraint

Paris Vogue's Editor-in-Chief Emmanuelle Alt has been under the microscope since filling Carine Roitfeld's immaculately turned heels in February 2011. During Roitfeld's tenure as Editor at Paris Vogue, she earned the magazine a legion of devoted followers through her fearless conviction, sense of style and inimitable vision which often courted controversy by pushing the boundaries of good taste. When quizzed by WWD as to the intended direction for Paris Vogue under her leadership, Alt reveals "I want to show in French Vogue more and more a lot of clothes. I want the Vogue to become very feminine. Women are very interested in fashion and beauty." Speaking with vogue.com, Alt sheds her inhibitions "It is really strange, editing the magazine; it's like decorating an apartment you have lived in for ten years already, I knew what I wanted to change about it. I wanted to see things with humour, to present ideas and pictures that will make people laugh or smile. I am a happy person, and I don't think people want bad news."

Vive la Difference - Emmanuelle Alt
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier
Source - vogue.com

Over the past year, I have noted a discernible shift, in the Paris Vogue aesthetic. The magazine has adopted a more fashion-oriented focus, with the emphasis being on beauty and clothing that is not only accessible but wearable. There is a restrained quality to the editorials which does not detract from the beauty of the garments or the models themselves. Alt continues Paris Vogue's loyalty towards its regular roster of faces with models Kate Moss, Gisele Bundchen, Isabeli Fontana, Daria Werbowry and Malgosia Bela featuring prominently on the cover and within its pages. The brazen displays of nudity during the Roitfeld-era have taken on a new significance, with Alt proposing to vogue.com "It all depends on how it's done. I respect women. These girls have parents who are looking at the magazine. A nude picture shouldn't carry a message of sexual fantasy. But I love nudity. I am super French. It's the body, it's sexuality, it's part of life." The following images from the May 2012 issue illustrate beautifully, Alt's altered vision for fashion's style bible.

Laetitia Casta
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Mario Testino
Source - models.com


Malgosia Bela
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Glen Luchford
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com

Malgosia Bela
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Glen Luchford
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com

Malgosia Bela
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Glen Luchford
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com

Malgosia Bela
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Glen Luchford
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com

Malgosia Bela
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Glen Luchford
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com

Malgosia Bela
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Glen Luchford
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com


Isabeli Fontana
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Alasdair McLellan
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com

Isabeli Fontana
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Alasdair McLellan
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com

Isabeli Fontana
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Alasdair McLellan
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com

Isabeli Fontana
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Alasdair McLellan
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com

Isabeli Fontana
Paris Vogue - May 2012
Photographer - Alasdair McLellan
Source - visualoptimism.blogspot.com